Brows are sisters not twins

Brows are Sisters not Twins

Yes, brows are sisters, not twins.  That said, finding or creating symmetry for a client’s brows is one of the most important design aspects of the brow.  Sometimes this is more than challenging – most often because naturally our faces from one side to the other are not symmetrical.  Our orbital bone structure that surrounds our eye is shaped differently on each side.  Typically, one side displays front and wide and the other short and curved back. Basically one side is more flat and the other is more curved.  When this occurs, drawing brows that are exactly the same (using measurements and stencils) appear forced and unnatural.   

As artists, we try to work with your personal bone structure to create the best brow symmetry possible.  I like to do this by analyzing the brow in pieces – is the front shape of the brow the same and appear in toward the nose at the same distance and direction?  Are the arches level?  Is the angle of the brow tails the same?  Are the brows the same thickness?  Has the client received Botox or other neurotoxin in the last four months? Once the individual parts of the brow are analyzed, step back and view the face as a whole.  Is there anything that stands out?  Is the overall appearance pleasing?

Frankly, we are our own worst critics.  And while we may stand in the mirror and scrutinize our brows for – well, a very long time – no one else is doing that.  They are looking at your overall appearance.  The brows frame your eyes and bring out one of the best features we have – the window to our soul.  Your brows are only the enhancing frame.  The beauty comes from you.

Melisa Ferriola, LE, CPCP

Shanan Zickefoose, BSN, RN, CMM, CPCP

What is SofTap®?

First and foremost, SofTap® is a brand.  The company, located in Livermore, CA, is dedicated to supplying needles, pigments and miscellaneous accessories to permanent cosmetic technicians that use a manual hand tool method.  Since their beginnings in 1988, their needle configurations have become synonymous with the hand tool.  SofTap® is hand tool, but not all hand tool technicians use SofTap® needles.  But it is safe to say that the SofTap® needs are the most widely used hand tool needles.  All needles are delivered sealed, sterilized casings and you can be assured of your personal safety when the technician is combining these safe tools with the proper universal precautions safety standards.

Many hand tool technicians use other pigment lines than the SofTap® brand.  Be sure to understand the difference between th hand tool technician that uses the SofTap® needles and one that uses, trains and supports to entire brand.  Be sure your consultation includes answers to method, pigments and actual client results.

Why the hand tool method?  The modality used by a technician is very subjective.  The modalities for tattooing are numerous and vary quite widely.  Each technician, as in any profession, has their own preference.  There are advantages and disadvantages that can be lined up for every machine and tool on the market.  But most importantly, the best tool is the one your technician is most experienced with.

Permanent cosmetics is an art.  Skin is a living canvas.  The nuances to this art are extreme.

It is more important for the consumer to be focused on the technician's training and continuing education, their safety standards, and their demonstrated client results.

Understanding Microblading

Recently, the demand for permanent cosmetic hairline strokes has increased. Many estheticians and lash artists are rushing to train in this advanced permanent cosmetic specialty and many are taking 1-2 day training courses from inexperienced people with no understanding or fundamental training regarding permanent cosmetics. They are being poorly trained and ill advised with regards to what microblading is. Many are being taught that it is using a 'blade' which is misleading using medical terminology, instead of proper tattoo terminology. They are also being taught it is semi-permanent and is only placed in the epidermis. The truth is, it is placed in the dermal layer where the color will not flake off in the next 60-90 days. A two day class cannot teach color theory in its entirety to provide appropriate knowledge to prevent the client's eyebrows from turning too cool or too warm. They are not adequately educating the students how to avoid scaring their clients. It is very dangerous to see what is happening to this industry. 

Fortunately, Oklahoma is better protected with our laws regarding any permanent cosmetic procedure. We are required to train for 300 hours in Oklahoma and pass certification exams prior to obtaining licensure. Due to the different laws around the country, many other states are experiencing vast problems with people taking 1-2 day training and then a few months later training others.  I simply cannot imagine how someone would be so unethical, but I suppose my standards are different. 

As of February 21, 2016, there is ongoing discussion on message forums regarding how newly trained technicans, as recent as October and November, 2015 are now offering training. They are using words such as tattooing into the muscle. What a great travesty to an idustry that is well established. Unfortunately, these new technicians are simply focused on making a lot of fast money and they have even sought out opportunities to be featured on shows such as "The Doctors".  I assure you, if this segment airs as we professionals are concerned about, we will do our best to properly educate the public. We cannot support false information that aims to hurt our professional industry. We will not drop our standards. 

Any permanent makeup trainer should have a minimum of four to five years of active experience in this field. Microstroking, the appropriate term, should only be performed by a technician with advanced skill. A technician with experience will understand color theory, color modification, color correction, and have skills to lighten pigment. Clients need to have access to all of these skills by a qualified technician, otherwise, they should be prepared to find a technician that can provide correction. Correcting permanent cosmetics can be very costly and time consuming. It is never a simple fix, you must be prepared for several procedures spaced months apart. 

One reason I am so thankful for the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals is they provide ethical standards for our industry.  They have taken notice to the 'microblading' trend and have produced a fact sheet to better educate the public.   Shanan Zickefoose, BSN, RN, CMM, CPCP